TIPUPS

Tipups or Traps as they are called here in Maine

This Page will cover the and hookups that you will need. Tipups come in many shapes and sizes and all seem to work ok. Here in Maine the most tipups are wood. Heritage, Thompson, Maine Traps, (made in pennsylvania?), Jack Traps, are some of the ones I've seen. Very few plastic ones, though I am not sure why. They are also made in many levels of quality. I bought the cheap ones, learned my lesson and went back and bought the good ones. ( I like the Heritage best by far. Good prices and great quality!) When you buy tipups look for sturdy construction, good reels that hold enough line for your type of fishing. If you fish deep, you need enough line to get down there and be able to play a fish. They usually come in the plain wood color but I like dark wood or black so they warm from the sun and help keep the hole open.

The Line and Leaders

When it comes to the bulk of the line on your trap it is not that important. I always use the nylon braided ice fishing line as the main line. I use two lengths of different color line, the first is about 50 feet long and then I tie another piece about 20 feet long to that and then the barrel swivel and then the leader. That way when you get to the trap you can guess right away about how much line is out, much like using lead core line when trolling. From there the line becomes far more important. This is the part of the line that will be near the fish. The line companies are putting out more varieties and I really like them. Two that I am using are Berkeley Firewire, and Mason Ice line. You can, of course, use plain old monafilament and most people do. Use a heavy lb test, like 12 or 14, to make sure it can handle the ice edges. Make sure you change it fairly often since it will get stressed. Just be careful on the ice edges when playing a fish or ........well, you know. Use about a 6 foot length and tie it on the nylon line with a barrel swivel so you can avoid any twists or tangles. Take a lighter or match and melt the nylon cord after you tie a knot and it will never come loose. (be careful it melts a little)

Hooks and Sinkers

I like to tie the hook right to the line, no swivel. I think the hook hangs better and weighs less on your bait. Use hooks that are uncoated and corrode quickly. If releasing, it certainly helps to pinch down the barb, making it easy to unhook the fish. I carry a pair of cutters on my pack. Can't get the hook out quickly? Cut the hook and let the rest of it corrode. Be gentle. Use sharp cutters and they will cut quick. Use sharp hooks and keep tension or you will get nothing more than lost bait and cold hands re-baiting the hook. I like small hooks for salmon, and brook trout. They have small mouths and you should use smaller bait. Lakers and browns have bigger mouths and will gulp the small hooks right down and then you won't be able to release them without cutting the hook. Sinkers should be made of STEEL, not LEAD, and they are readily available. I like split shot, mostly because they are convenient and easy to use. I use one small split shot, since you don't want to sink your bait. Just enough to keep him off the surface. I usually put the sinker about 2 feet away from the hook. This gives him room to swim and stay active. You want your bait to be seen!

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Remember to Catch and Release, or they never get big!